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When curating a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary honour.